Since there was no breakfast to be had at the Hilltop House, we got an early start after I changed my flat. Although the facilities were disappointing, there is no denying the magnificent view offered. We were treated to a perfect sunrise over the Potomac and the Maryland hillsides. We rode down the steep long hill, clutching our brakes, to the walking bridge. The bridge is actually a functioning railroad bridge with a protected sidewalk. Unlike yesterday, it was relatively cool out, we were fresh and no one else was out. Carrying the loaded bikes up and over the bridge, and down the dreaded metal spiral stairs was a snap.We had heard about a great coffee house in Brunswick, MD, which was a few miles down the trail. It was early Sunday morning, and the only thing opened in town was the bait shop. After splitting a wrapped muffin that Steve gave us we headed back down the trail. Before too long we met up with Jogi from Towson, MD. He was riding by himself and had started from Perryopolis, PA on Friday. We slowed down to talk. He was riding his wife's straight bar hybrid, as he couldn't get wider tires on his bike. He told us how the day before he rode over 120 miles from Frostburg to Shepardstown. He couldn't feel his fingers and he felt like he was getting delirious. Jogi said he actually caught himself crying on his bike. His bike computer broke, so he had no idea of his pace. We had slowed down considerable to ride with him as he obviously needed some company, but he commented that he had to pick up his pace to ride with us. Our guess was that he had to spend around 10 hours pedaling the day before to cover the distance from Frostburg to Shepardstown.
After reaching White's Ferry we parted ways with Jogi. It was about 9:30 and we were hungry for breakfast. We invited him to have breakfast with us, but he was anxious to finish the home stretch of the ride. After thanking us for the company that made it "the best part of his ride" we wished each other luck and parted ways. White's Ferry is the last operating ferry on the Potomac. It leads to Leesburg, VA. There was a small store with a lunch/breakfast counter at the ferry station. After a decent breakfast we were ready to finish up the last half of the day's ride.
It was Father's Day. Jeff has a 1 year old. We were both anxious to get home in time for dinner. After arriving in DC we would have to follow a trail to the airport where we renting a minivan to drive home. The drive is about 4 hours. So we had a goal to get to the airport by early afternoon. Although the scenery was still beautiful
, we stopped less frequently and tried to keep a good pace. Jeff lived in the DC area for a while and had ridden on some of these sections of the trail. He warned me that things would bog down the closer we got to DC. This was true when we hit
the Great Falls area, about 15 miles from Georgetown.We had become spoiled by the slow pace of small towns, and enriched by the genuinely nice people we met along the trail. They respected what we were trying to do, and selflessly tried to help with friendly advice, an extra muffin or a ride down a hill an a muggy day. The last 15 miles the residents inside the beltway had a different approach. The treated the C&O as if they were on the beltway at rush hour: pushy, selfish and rude. The rules require that you have a bell. This is so you can warn slower moving riders that you are approaching. Groups are supposed to ride single file, but they don't. So when they hear a bell they are to move over and let you by. One of the more obnoxious phenomena we saw multiple times were fathers out for a Sunday
Father's Day ride with their kids. Instead of talking with their families, they were yapping on cell phones while riding. The Great Falls area is beautiful, with waterfalls, restored old buildings and a working replica of a canal boat. It was ashamed that the clowns with the cell phones were missing it. In one stretch of several miles we say repeating piles of horse poop. This was in an area that was heavily used. We finally saw two ladies on horses in front of us. So not to startle the riders or horses we rang the bells slowed down and let them know that we were approaching. Instead of a friendly hello, they starting yelling at us, telling us to slow down. We passed at 12 mph. It was as if they thought that the C&O Towpath was solely for them and their horses and all other users were trespassers.
As we got close to Georgetown we dropped over to a parallel paved trail. This allowed us to complete the last few miles quicker. At the end we ran into a rider who had been in front of us. We asked for directions and he told us to follow him. He led us to the Key Bridge and pointed us to the trail on the Virginia side that lead to the airport. When we told him we had ridden from Pittsburgh, he told us that he was a transplanted Pittsburgher. That probably explained his friendly and helpful demeanor.The trail system in and around DC is great, but heavily used. They actually had a radar speed trap on the trail leading to the airport. We made it to the airport without any problems. As is typical, it took awhile to navigate the terminal, and we were kept waiting a long time for the rental car. Ironically we were waiting because they had to wash it off site, for two stinky sweaty passengers with muddy, dirty gear and bikes. It seemed like it took us longer to get the car than to ride to DC. We were on the road by 3:00. We stopped for some food and cold drinks. After pulling up at a motel, we sweet-talked the manager into letting us use a shower. Changed, clean and refreshed, I made it home for a Father's Day Dinner with my family.
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