The second day was my favorite day of riding on the trip. We passed through long rail and canal tunnels. Passed the Continental Divide, rode from Pennsylvania into Maryland, had an over 20 mile high speed downhill, saw historic Cumberland and began riding on the C&O Towpath.
The day started with an awesome breakfast at the GI Day Room with a stack of hubcap sized pancakes masterfully prepared by Floyd. This place is not to be missed. It's true Americana. The small town diner where everyone stops to get coffee in the morning and solve the world's problems. We were minor celebrities, as the town is very cyclist friendly. People piped up about their own experiences on the trail. I'm sure none of them had been on a bike since childhood until the trail came through town a few years ago. Think of Mayberry with a bike trail and you have Meyersdale.
After carbo loading a la Floyd we were totally fueled for a full day of riding. We continued riding up another 8 miles or so to Deal. About a mile or so out of town they are putting in a very cool cast iron bridge that was preserved and moved to Meyersdale.
After reaching Deal we started descending. This is the Eastern Continental Divide. A couple of miles down the trail we reached the Savage Tunnel. This is a real highlight of the Pennsylvania side of the ride. The tunnel was opened just about a year ago and was the major impediment to connecting the GAP and the C&O. It took years and about $15 million dollars to complete the project. The tunnel is almost a mile long and lit. As you approach it is quite imposing.
Shortly after getting through the tunnel we reach the PA/MD border, which is also the Mason Dixon Line. For the next 200 or so miles each revolution would open our eyes to American history and Civil War era. These revolutions were coming much swifter as we headed down hill. Although it was only a 2% grade at most it made it very easy to ride fast. Of course we slowed down when we reached the unlit Bordon Tunnel. Stupidly, I didn't bother putting my light on my handlebar. As I reached the tunnel I could see the light at the other end. This was a bit deceptive. When I reached the middle of the tunnel it was pitch black and very eerie. I was engulfed in darkness, unable to make out either end. I had to pedal blindly until I could see the opening on the other end.
We passed through the outskirts of Frostburg and started riding along the Western Maryland Railroad, which still operates a steam engine between Frostburg and Cumberland. The trail crosses the tracks several times as we approached Cumberland. The town of Cumberland was very nice. It is where the GAP rail trail ends and the C&O Canal Towpath begins. They have restored and built up the area by the old rail station where the towpath begins. There are shops along the trail near the rail tracks. We stopped for coffee. It was cold when we started out, probably the low 50's and we were moving for over an hour at over 20 mph, so the wind chill whipped through us. A nice big latte was a great treat.
After the break we started on the C&O. The surface is very different. Instead of smooth crushed limestone, the C&O is like a narrow dirt farm road. There are mud holes, roots and rocks. You need to think more like a mountain biker than a road rider. As long as you are aware of what is ahead of you on the trail and you are prepared to get out of your seat to ride over or through the impediment it's easy to ride. We never had an issue. On the other hand we got muddy and the bikes slid a bit. We passed Confederate grave sites and canal locks. In parts the canal has still green water, in other areas the canal was dewatered and overgrown with trees.
Hunger set in, but towns were few and far between. We came to Old Town, which was very small. We asked a local if there was a restaurant. She suggested that we go to the old school house. We were expecting an old one room school house, or a big old brick building that was converted to shops. In fact we almost rode by the "old school house". It was a one story 1960's style brick school. The cafeteria was turned into a deli. It was as if nothing was changed. The pictures of the senior classes were on the walls and the sports trophies were in a glass case. The furniture was the school tables and chairs. The class rooms and offices were converted into a body shop filled with cars from the 50's and 60's in various stages of restoration.
After lunch we rode toward the Paw Paw Tunnel. This tunnel was designed to cut off miles from the canal trip so that the canal could is lo compete with the railroads. In fact the tunnel did the canal in. It took way too long and too much money to complete and caused the canal company to go bankrupt. This tunnel is long, but not as long as the Savage Tunnel. The towpath becomes very narrow as it hugs next to the dark waters of the canal below. The surface is very uneven with puddles. Signs warn riders to walk their bikes through. I dismounted, but Stritty pedaled on. As I awkwardly walked, pushing the bike I watched as Jeff disappeared ahead. I no longer could make out the faint light of his head light. Since he was making it, I figured I could do the same. I got on the bike and rode slowly, careful not to out ride the beam of my light. It was an interesting challenge and something I probably would not have tried if I was riding alone.
Eventually we reached our destination for the night: Little Orleans (with the emphasis on Little). We were as far from big city civilization as one could imagine. As soon as you get off of the trail and go through the overpass tunnel you are greeted by the village's only industry, the Bill monopoly of booze, bait and bites. From a couple of ramshackle buildings 81 year old Bill operates a combination bar, restaurant, grocery, beer store and canoe rental. The facilities were upgraded after a fire consumed the original Bill's shack a few years back. Bill has the only legal firewater sales for 20 miles. That makes Bill a popular guy. Sundays are especially good for Bill. Under Maryland law, you can only buy alcohol on Sundays if it is purchased with a meal. On Sundays Bill sells lots of food.
After getting off the trail we had a cold one at Bill's and then headed for our accommodations: the Little Orleans Lodge. It is a rambling white wood building that once was the the local school house. It has been converted into a very comfortable B&B. I would bet it's the most manly B&B around. The owner, Steve is a great innkeeper. Steve is 71 and living alone. He seems to like the company. We were the only guests that night. He gave us the upstairs which consisted of two nicely appointed large bedrooms, a bath and a sweet balcony off of Stritty's room. After we cleaned up the bikes and then ourselves we came downstairs. No doilies and crumpets here. Steve yelled out from the other room, "grab some beers or whatever from the fridge and there's some chips and cheese dip by the TV for you." After showing us a very well done video of the C&O trail.
, he took us on a tour of the area. First he drove to the lookout shown above where we had a commanding view of West Virginia. This spot was used as a spot for soldiers to shoot cannons at the enemy during the civil war. Steve then drove us around pointing things out of local interest: the trailer where he found the fat dead guy on Thanksgiving, the campground where they have a motorcycle rally complete with a motorcycle demolition derby and the woods that were turned into a goat farm. At the end of the tour he dropped us off at Bill's for dinner with the advice to stick to the chicken or fish, as he wasn't going to be responsible if we had the seafood. Remembering the bean burrito incident we followed his advice. After sampling the local flavor of Bill's complete with the wandering dog, crying kids and loud mouth local drunks, we were ready to call it a day.
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